| | | | | | | | | need help identifying my new gitane | | | | | |
Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 3:42 pm |
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19ch3vy85 |
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Joined: 03 Sep 2015 |
Posts: 7 |
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If somebody please could help me identify my new gitane. I've been reading posts and believe it's similar to a 75 champione du monde any advice would be greatly appreciated. Not sure why my pictures came out upside down
trying to figure out how to fix it.
Weinmann brake levers
Stronglight p3 headset
Normandy comp hubs with mavic module e rims
Mafac "racer" brakes
Itm stem with huret fork DO's
Reynolds 531 tubing 3 tube renforces
Rubis seat post with avocet touring seat
Stronglight model 99 crank with maillard 700 pedals
Maillard 5 piece rear sprocket
Huret shift levers and dérailleur's
Honeycomb rear DO's
That's about all the parts i was able to research that are on the bike did these parts come factory on a certain model or were they aftermarket etc? |
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| | | | | | | | | 1976 Mystery Gitane | | | | | |
Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 11:56 pm |
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verktyg |
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Joined: 14 Jan 2007 |
Posts: 2814 |
Location: SF Bay Area |
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Welcome to the Forum.
The Champione du Monde bikes had frames that were made of all Reynolds 531 tubing. Only the 3 main tubes on your frame are Reynolds 531.
I've reworked your pictures:
It's probably a 1975 or 1976 European model.
I've never seen Stronglight model 99 cranks used on any Gitane bikes.
It's a triple that some installed back in the 70's.
Not many better quality Gitane bikes were imported into the US between 1973 and the early 80's. There's a lot of gaps in the catalogs from that period.
It should be a nice bike. I wouldn't do much to it besides replacing and repacking the bearings, replace the cables with newer ones with lined cable housing and replace the brake pads.
WARNING!
Lower the stem.
It needs to be inserted at least 75mm - 80mm (2 3/4" - 3") into the steerer!!! |
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_________________ Chas.
SF Bay Area, CA USA
==============
1984 Criterium
1969 TdF
1971 TdF
1974 TdF
1984 TdF x 2 Bikes
1970 SC
1971 SC
1972 SC
1984 SC
1984 Team Pro
1985 Professional
1990s Team Replica |
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Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 4:02 am |
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19ch3vy85 |
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Joined: 03 Sep 2015 |
Posts: 7 |
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Thank you chas your the best i was really confused about the pictures I'm definitely going to lower the handlebars i just had new tires put on it I ordered weinmann brake cables from ebay i really like the bike it does fit me perfect i was trying to find the weinmann hoods but no pair on ebay unless i buy the levers and hoods. The brake pads appear to look new, my mother had it in her storage i seen it and had to have it she gave it to me. I'm going to try to find a bike shop in florida that will grease everything and clean it up good. I'm going to ride this bike for a long time, thank you again chas.
David from Florida |
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| | | | | | | | | Campy Brake Levers | | | | | |
Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 10:48 am |
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verktyg |
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Joined: 14 Jan 2007 |
Posts: 2814 |
Location: SF Bay Area |
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They look like Campagnolo brake levers to me. Weinmann hoods can be used but they will look funky (as in bad).
Call around and find a shop that knows how to work on French bikes. Most shops don't! |
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_________________ Chas.
SF Bay Area, CA USA
==============
1984 Criterium
1969 TdF
1971 TdF
1974 TdF
1984 TdF x 2 Bikes
1970 SC
1971 SC
1972 SC
1984 SC
1984 Team Pro
1985 Professional
1990s Team Replica |
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Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 11:22 am |
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19ch3vy85 |
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Joined: 03 Sep 2015 |
Posts: 7 |
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I tried to get my stem down today i think it's seized I'm going to soak it tonite i was going to use gear oil, I don't like using pb blaster or wd40 i feel that it takes all grease out of the steerer it may cause rust down the line any suggestions about that or am i wrong about that?
Theres a pic of the brake lever which model levers they are
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| | | | | | | | | stuck stem | | | | | |
Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 12:54 am |
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gman309905 |
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Joined: 23 Dec 2012 |
Posts: 63 |
Location: Pittsburgh PA. |
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Your stem may be seized because of the chemical reaction between the steel and aluminium, I would suggest trying vinegar to dissolve the oxidation and free the stem. WD-40 is a penetrating oil and is quite good at preventing rust, it would be my second choice. |
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Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 5:59 am |
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19ch3vy85 |
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Joined: 03 Sep 2015 |
Posts: 7 |
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I will definitely try that today gman thank you i am very cautious about doing things the rite way this way I don't have to redo something down the line. Thank you for the advice. |
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| | | | | | | | | Removing a stuck stem... | | | | | |
Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 12:56 am |
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verktyg |
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Joined: 14 Jan 2007 |
Posts: 2814 |
Location: SF Bay Area |
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Is the expander free in the stem?
When you loosen the expander bolt, can you move it up and down? If not:
The first thing I would do before trying all the magic chemical tricks is to loosen the expander bolt so that it sticks about 5mm above the top of the stem.
Loosen the top lock nut on the headset too.
If you don't have a brass hammer, place a piece of wood like a 2 x 4 flat side on top of the bolt.
With the bike on it's wheels, I usually stand with the front wheel braced between my legs when I do this.
Gently hit the wood with a good sized hammer a few times to see if the expander comes loose.
That may be all that it takes.
I've been lucky with stems all these years and never had to resort to any extreme measures.
When you get the stem out, disassemble the headset and remove the fork. CAREFULLY inspect the threads on the steerer for any bulges or cracks.
If you find a problem then it needs to be properly repaired or replaced.
You don't want to get to know an orthodontist or worse yet a neurologist!
Some people have reported good results turning the bike upside down and pouring chlorine bleach into the steerer and letting it set.
Make sure that you have something underneath to catch the bleach when it starts to run out.
Check back... |
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_________________ Chas.
SF Bay Area, CA USA
==============
1984 Criterium
1969 TdF
1971 TdF
1974 TdF
1984 TdF x 2 Bikes
1970 SC
1971 SC
1972 SC
1984 SC
1984 Team Pro
1985 Professional
1990s Team Replica |
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Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 6:27 am |
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19ch3vy85 |
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Joined: 03 Sep 2015 |
Posts: 7 |
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I ended up getting it, and let me tell you i hope i never have to go through that again. I soaked overnight in pb blaster still wouldn't budge, i tried the hammer with a wood block even wrapped the wood block in an old shirt so not to scratch the stem, still no luck then i took the wheel off flipped it upside down and was able to spin the forks. So after a couple hrs of elbow grease and pb blaster it came loose, the expander was rusted to the steerer, i pulled the whole assembly apart greased and cleaned everything, everything looked still ok was a lil hassle going back together but it worked perfect after assembled thank you chas for the help and ideas. I took it out last nite for 20 miles and it rhode so smooth besides my squeaky brake pads lol. |
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